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Last year, I was a judge for the Miss America pageant. That meant a full week of driving back and forth between Atlantic City and my home in New York—and a lot of gas station snacking. On one of those fateful trips, I walked into a convenience store on the Jersey Turnpike with a mission: Buy a delicious snack to get me through a busy afternoon. In the past, I wouldn’t have thought twice about grabbing a big bag of pizza-flavored Combos, those chip-cracker hybrids that were designed in a snack lab to be unquestionably delicious (and addictive). The bag would have been empty in minutes…

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